Repotting
an orchid for the first time can be daunting.
Although it isn’t a
difficult task, it is sufficiently different from
repotting other kinds of plants that you may be inclined
to put it off. Don’t. An orchid that is allowed to
remain in the same pot too long will flower poorly and
may even die. There are two ways to tell if your orchid
needs repotting. First, your plant may simply have
outgrown its pot. For example, if your orchid is one
that produces pseudobulbs (bulblike, swollen stems that
support the leaves), the new growths will extend beyond
the edge of the pot, leaving brittle and easily damaged
young roots dangling in the air. Second, the growing
medium may have broken down. If it appears sodden and
mushy and no longer drains freely, you must repot the
plant in fresh medium to keep its roots from rotting.
Unless it is an
emergency, the best time to repot an orchid with
pseudobulbs, such as the cattelya shown here, is just
after it has begun to produce a new growth but before
the new roots have begun to elongate. As a potting
medium, your best bet is a commercially prepared mix
based on medium-size chunks of fir bark. If your orchid
is the kind that lacks pseudobulbs, such as a moth
orchid (Phalaenopsis) or a slipper orchid (Paphiopedilum),
you may repot at any time, although it is best to do so
when the plant is not in flower.
1. UNPOT THE ORCHID
Prepare your work area by spreading out several sheets
of newspaper—repotting can be messy. Turn the plant
upside down over the paper and thump the sides and
bottom of the pot to dislodge it. Often the roots will
stick to the pot, making removal difficult. If this
happens, use a clean kitchen knife to loosen them. The
plant will not be harmed if you inadvertently damage
some of the old roots.
Once you have removed the
plant, carefully pry the roots apart and shake off as
much of the old potting mixture as possible. Don’t
worry if some still clings to the roots.
|
|
2. PREPARE FOR REPOTTING
Before the plant can be repotted, you will need to trim
the roots. Use a heavy scissors or small shears, and
have a sharp knife on hand.  To
prevent your cutting tools from spreading viral disease,
sterilize each one by wiping with a cloth dampened with
rubbing alcohol. Remove any dead or
damaged roots. Dead roots are mushy and light brown;
healthy roots are firm and white and have light-green
growing tips. Cut off any old, leafless pseudobulbs at
this time. If there is more than one new growth, or
"lead," you can divide the plant by cutting
through the rhizome. Each division should have at least
three pseudobulbs and a new lead.
3.
REPOT THE PLANT
Choose a pot that will accommodate about two years
of new growth, based on your observation of the
plant. If you are using an old pot, wash it
thoroughly and soak it in a 10 percent solution of
chlorine bleach for 30 minutes, then rinse it
well. (Clay pots should air out for a few days.)
If you are using a new clay pot, soak it in water
for a few minutes.
Orchids need excellent drainage, so place a
generous layer of broken crocks or plastic foam
peanuts in the bottom of the pot. Before you use
the potting mix, wet it with boiling water, allow
it to cool, and drain it. When placing the
division in the pot, position the older
pseudobulbs against one side so that the new lead
has room to expand. Pack the dampened bark mixture
around the roots, firming it with your thumbs as
you go. The top of the rhizome should be level
with the top of the bark. |
 |
4.
AFTERCARE
To keep the plant upright while its new root
system is getting established, stake it securely
with a loop of twine or use a "rhizome
clip," a simple device that attaches to the
side of the pot.
Put the orchid in a lightly shaded location and mist
both the plant and the surface of the bark twice
daily until new root growth is evident. Once the
roots have penetrated the bark, move the plant
into brighter light and resume normal watering and
fertilizing. |
|
